Showing posts with label San Gimignano. Show all posts
Showing posts with label San Gimignano. Show all posts

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

San Gimignano - my kinda town









I'm so pleased that Alessandro liked San Gimignano just as much as I do.

Friday, October 10, 2008

PhotoHunt: Lazy day in San Gimignano





Another perfect day wandering the narrow laneways of San Gimignano.

This kit is by Lauren Bavin, Head Designer of The Digital Scrapbook Place, (where I hang out) and is appropriately called: Tuscan Meadows.

This is my latest entry.

Monday, August 25, 2008

One can never...

...have too many handbags from San Gimignano.



Photo of me taken by my sister on one of our many trips together.

Friday, August 1, 2008

PhotoHunt: Clouds

This is my latest entry.



San Gimignano dawn, early morning clouds and mist - September 2006, photo taken by my sister on one of our trips together. I took Alessandro there last October.

The photo was taken from the balcony of Hotel La Cisterna that they filmed a scene from the movie Tea With Mussolini on. It's in San Gimignano, just south of Florence.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

The towers of San Gimignano





San Gimignano has to be seen - to be believed... And Alessandro agreed with me after I took him there last year.

Solitary Flute by Irene Alexeeva.

Saturday, December 15, 2007

San Gimignano - I could stay there for ever

I can't believe I am going back to the Albergo La Cisterna! I'm so excited. I can sit on my bed and look out at two different views.

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Overview of my 2006 trip (1 of 10)

Our five week trip began in Venice at the very end of September and ended in Liguria early in November.

After eight dreamy Venetian days we drove down to Orvieto, to stay overnight in a beautiful monastery in the shade of the town’s cathedral. From there we journeyed south to Sorrento to stay in our hotel up on the cliff, overlooking the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius, just a stroll from the center of town. We made sure we went to the webcam, where I called my son on the phone and he could see me waving at him while we were talking.

We then spent some time in Montepulciano before heading to San Gimignano and we ended our trip in Santa Margherita on the Ligurian coast.

This was the fourth trip my sister and I have made together in recent years. We hope to do many more.


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Sorrento webcam, up on top right of frame

Driving from Montepulciano to San Gimignano (2 of 10)

We were awake early – who could resist the lure of early morning in Tuscany? We drove out into the dawn light of Montepulciano, where we had stayed for three enchanting nights before our trip across to San Gimignano. The cathedral bells were ringing, pealing and clanging as we missed our turn and drove through the narrow, twisting town streets that were normally closed to tourists. We just pulled in our mirrors on each side of the car and enjoyed the experience. Before leaving the little town completely we pulled into a car park and went into a bar to have the first cappuccino and brioche con marmellata for the day.

One last swoop past San Biago, but no lingering this time to persuade my sister to sing an Ave Maria while standing in the centre with sunbeams permeating the church, giving my blond sister the look of a halo. Now we were almost ready to start the long day’s driving. First we learned how to fill the diesel tank of the Lancia all by ourselves. At the self service petrol station, one must first insert money into a Bancomat type machine. We put in a twenty euro note. Then you press a tiny button under the word Diesel and a message comes up to tell you which number pump you are to use. Once you have it worked out, it’s as easy as pie.

Car filled with diesel, video camera turned on to do a “road cam” of the last sight of medieval Montepulciano, and we were off to San Gimignano. But first, we had a picnic lunch to buy in anticipation of seeing the much talked about Abbey and Chapel of San Galgano, deep in the Tuscan countryside.

We drove through Pienza and San Quirico D’Orcia (retracing yesterday’s scenic route) but did not revisit Montalcino as the road by passed it, although we did pull over and take more photographs of that lovely city perched on its hilltop. We had spent some time there, the day before. A little taste of the town – like a sip of a beautiful Brunello.

We had decided that the drive to San Galgano would be a perfect day trip on the way to San Gimignano. As we neared the abbey the roads narrowed, the trees pressed in – chestnuts, blackberry thickets, pines, olives and all manner of deciduous trees blanketed the undulating hills of the terrain we were passing through. The drive was enchanting. Here and there we saw remnants of past glories – towers still standing, some crumbling very slowly with the passing of time.

We stopped for a cappuccino and brioche at a town near San Galgano and spent some time on a walking track which we hoped would take us to the abbey – but a wrong turn led us to a river we couldn’t ford. Returning to the main road we asked for and received clear directions and then we arrived at the famous abbey.

As we parked in the pay parking, some distance from the abbey buildings, we could see the beautiful chapel up on the hillside above us. Through the trees, the abbey was also in sight alongside a newly ploughed field. There were six large pheasants in the field, with burnished coppery brown plumage.

It’s eerie to stand at the entrance, with the crows cawing desolately as they fly through the roofless building, and in and out the paneless windows. The circular chapel up the hill has a sword embedded in the stone inside it. How fascinating that story is! All in all, an unforgettable experience and a memorable drive through the deeply forested Tuscan countryside.


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Me at San Galgano


On the drive north from San Galgano up to San Gimignano, we made a stop at the town of Staggia. We parked at the car park next to the bar where we had coffee in 2001, but I don’t recall seeing the big glassed in enclosure with the two pythons before! Yikes! I don’t like snakes.

We enjoyed the drive through Poggibonsi. I stayed on the edge of Poggibonsi once, in ‘camere’ (rooms) with my husband and two young children on our three month Italy trip. We ate dinner in the town each evening and enjoyed the passeggiata with a gelato in the town square. I got quite excited to actually find the sign this time for the Pam supermarket as we drove through the roundabout, thanks to clear instructions from a Slow Travel friend.

Onwards towards the towers of San Gimignano. I imagine it would be very theatrical to first view them shrouded in mist, but as usual, when we arrived, it was a clear, sunny, blue sky day. What fun it was, driving up side streets through the town, after entering by a side gate, following the hotel signs, ever upward along the narrow streets until we reached the center and our goal – the Hotel La Cisterna.

I have stayed in this hotel three times now. Cher and Dame Judi Dench filmed scenes from “Tea With Mussolini” on the terrace of our room from which you can see six of the towers. There is also a wonderful view from a large window overlooking the valley which extends for miles.

I could look down about fifty feet to a large house, or set of apartments. An old man with a cane lived there and he had a very large orto (vegetable garden) and two fat, roly poly cats. One was white with black patches and the other one was black, with splotches of white. They chased each other up and down the garden.

The hills of Tuscany undulated in folds from this window. Tourists and locals alike ambled past in the street below. Bells tolled throughout the day and early evening. Black birds and pigeons wheeled and caroused in the sky above me.

Thursday is market day in San Gimignano (3 of 10)

When staying in the beautiful hotel, La Cisterna, we tried to be first into the breakfast room to sit at a table by the window as the view was enchanting. Cappuccino was delivered to your table, although the rest of the breakfast was buffet. How can I describe such billowy, soft, icing sugar bedecked, delicious croissants? Well, I can’t do them justice, especially when spread with delectable cherry jam.

It was like a scene from the picnic with Ratty and Mole in “The Wind in the Willows”. All sorts of scrumptious morsels awaited us, laid out on pristine white napery. The smiling waitress greeted us cheerfully when we arrived each day and waved us goodbye as we left.



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View from the terrace of La Cisterna


Then, as it was Thursday, downstairs and just out the hotel door was the market. Like a film set, it appeared, suddenly and silently, while we were upstairs at breakfast. Beautifully set up with displays of night attire, clothing, fresh flowers and potted plants. We bought a cyclamen for our sweet hotel maid who remembered us from last year. There were vans with pashminas in every hue imaginable, squishy, buttery soft leather handbags and wallets, fresh fruit and vegetables, household goods and an array of other enticing goodies.

We had an enjoyable pasta lunch at Taverna Paradiso in Via San Giovanni. Many of the other days we spent in San Gimignano, after a long morning’s window shopping, sightseeing, or wending our way down side streets, we would pick up pizza from the pizzeria in Via San Matteo. It makes delicious pizza, “per portare via” (take away). We often dined al fresco on our terrace, while gazing out at several of the town’s remaining towers.

Afternoon siestas in the hotel room were always particularly peaceful, looking out at the views from our perch up on the second floor.

On our first afternoon in town, we walked into each handbag shop starting with my personal favorite, Le Torri on Via San Giovanni. The scent of wallets and handbags perfumed the air. There’s nothing on Earth, like the deep, rich, seductive scent – of Italian leather handbags.

The narrow streets were almost deserted by five each afternoon. I half expected to see a tumbleweed blow past. Actually, as many people don’t realize the value of staying in San Gimignano, we pretty much had it all to ourselves for the first part of the morning and in the late afternoon. We were often out sightseeing for the rest of the day.

Later on we wandered into our little restaurant called La Grilia, on Via San Matteo, just down from the pizzeria on the other side of the road. We were greeted by Ada, who still worked there. She said, “I remember you!” My sister asked after her little girl, and I asked for dishes that weren’t on the menu and received them with a smile. Afterwards, we slowly wended our way back up Via San Matteo thanking God that San Gimignano is nowhere near as steep as Cortona or Montepulciano.

Each evening, when darkness fell, the lights came on to accentuate the towers. This was one of the most special times to be in San Gimignano.

Swirls of mist - a quiet day exploring the town (5 of 10)

We had a remarkable day spent roaming the medieval maze of narrow laneways, that we could see from the hotel windows. We met only local inhabitants as the majority of tourists strolled up Via San Giovanni, entering first the Piazza del Duomo, then moving on for a gelato in the Piazza della Cisterna, before vanishing down San Matteo.

I spent some time writing in my journal while staring out the window. A little later I had an interval downstairs at the Caffeteria dell’Olmo, having yet another delicious cappuccino and pastry.

You feel like you own the town when you are staying in La Cisterna, in a room with enormous picture windows overlooking the Tuscan countryside – a very wide balcony, French doors opening out on one side of the room with a view of several towers that can be seen without ever getting off your bed. The views from the terrace are captivating. You can see far off, distant hill towns. You can look down onto other terraces and say hello to nearby residents hanging out their washing or feeding their cats. Everything is fascinating. I could look for hours.

What a day! Fog and mist swirling – feeling transported back in time while staying in a thirteenth century palace.


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Via San Giovanni, San Gimignano

Leaving San Gimignano for Liguria (10 of 10)

San Gimignano reminds me of a slice of heaven.

This last morning dawned - a rosy-pink, mist tipped day. We went downstairs to our bar for a cappuccino where we had the bright idea of asking if we could each buy a cup and saucer. To our surprise the barista said we could. They have the name of the coffee shop on the cup and it was only 3.5 euros each! Now in my house in Canberra, I have a cup from the famous Lavena bar in San Marco and also one from my favorite San Gimignano bar.

When the breakfast room opened at 7.30am we went to have breakfast then we went back downstairs to the square. As it was Thursday, it was market day again. What fun! We each bought a new handbag and mine was the color of a cafĂ© latte in butter soft leather. When it comes to handbags, I really think it’s true to say that, “Italians do it better”.

By this time it was almost 10am; check out time for Albergo La Cisterna. We took our luggage down to the foyer and my sister got the car and drove it up to the door of the hotel in Piazza La Cisterna, right up to the edge of the market. Then we drove down through the narrow streets, side mirrors tucked in of course and we set off for the long drive north to Liguria, where we were to spend a week at the wonderful Lido Palace Hotel on the beach in Santa Margherita before leaving from Rome.

Our room there was a large one, with a big living room attached and a wonderful balcony, all in the center of town, overlooking the beach. What a way to spend our final week in Italy. Strolling along the painted facade of Camogli, sipping a cappuccino in Portofino, photographing the views from Castle Brown, driving down to Portovenere… I can’t wait to go back!


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Walking up from Portofino to Castle Brown

San Gimignano market day

I like the Thursday morning market. In fact, I like it so much, that on my trip last October, I stayed eight nights, so that I could go to the market twice!

It is set up by 8am in the Piazza della Cisterna, outside my hotel, Albergo La Cisterna. From my trip report:

“Beautifully set up with displays of night attire, clothing, fresh flowers and potted plants. There were vans with pashminas in every hue imaginable, squishy, buttery soft leather handbags and wallets, fresh fruit and vegetables, household goods and an array of other enticing goodies.”


There were blue jeans and cargo pants, all sorts and sizes of parkas, curtains, tea towels and pot holders. If you are staying in one of the many apartments throughout the town, there is also a large food section of the market in the next square – Piazza del Duomo.

I like to look at all the flowers for sale – potted plants and delectable bunches of roses.

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The pashminas were very colorful this year, as were the wallets and handbags. I remember buying black or brown leather goods for years on my Italy trips. Now there are greens, blues and lemon shades. My pashmina for this year that I wear when I want to feel special, is a soft cinnamon shade. I am still wearing one in a creamy cappuccino color in Canberra this winter, for every day.